FAQ
Concrete and Masonry in West Hills, answered
The questions we hear most from West Hills homeowners.
A typical project covers both flatwork and vertical masonry. Flatwork means the poured surfaces you walk and drive on: driveways, walkways, patio slabs, steps, pool decks, and equipment pads. Vertical masonry means the walls: concrete block, brick, stone veneer, seat walls, pilasters, and retaining walls. Because so many West Hills lots sit on a slope, most projects also include grading and at least one retaining or terrace wall to create level, usable space. We start with the base and drainage, set the steel, then pour or lay the units and finish the surface.
Yes, and on the hillside parcels along the western edge of the Valley this is some of our most common work. A retaining wall holds back soil, so it has to resist both the weight of that soil and the water pressure that builds behind it. We build on an engineered concrete footing, set vertical rebar up through the block, and fill the cells with grout so the wall acts as one reinforced unit. Behind the wall we place gravel backfill, a perforated drain pipe, and weep holes so water escapes instead of pushing the wall over.
Structure starts underground. We dig down to firm bearing soil and pour a reinforced concrete footing sized for the wall height and the load behind it. Vertical rebar is set into that footing on the correct spacing and extends up into the block. As the wall goes up, we place horizontal steel and fill the reinforced cells solid with grout, which ties the footing, the steel, and the block into a single mass. Taller walls carry more soil and water pressure, so they need a bigger footing and more steel. Above a certain height the design must be stamped by an engineer.
Drainage is what keeps a retaining wall standing. Soil that sits wet gets heavy and builds hydrostatic pressure against the back of the wall, which is what pushes failing walls out at the base. To prevent that, we backfill with clean gravel rather than the native clay, lay a perforated drain pipe at the bottom of that gravel to carry water to a safe outlet, and leave weep holes through the face so any remaining water has somewhere to go. On the hillside lots here, we also grade the ground above the wall so runoff moves away instead of soaking in.
Terracing is the practical way to make a steep West Hills lot usable. Instead of one tall wall, we step the grade with two or more shorter walls, creating flat benches between them for a patio, lawn, planting beds, or a play area. Each wall gets its own footing, reinforcement, and drainage, and we plan how water moves from the top terrace down to the bottom so nothing collects behind a wall. Terracing also tends to look better than a single high wall and can keep individual walls under the height where separate engineering is required. We lay out the levels to fit how you want to use the yard.
Yes. A sloped or hillside driveway takes extra planning because the grade affects both drainage and how cars approach the street. We set the base and forms to hold a slope that sheds water without being too steep to use, and we place control joints and steel so the slab handles the load of vehicles. Where the driveway meets the road, the apron sits in the public right of way, so that portion usually needs a permit and has to meet the city standard. On steeper drives we can add a broom or exposed aggregate finish for better traction.
Most of the life of a slab is decided before any concrete is poured. We remove soft topsoil and organic material, then compact the subgrade so it will not settle later. On top of that goes a base of crushed rock, compacted and graded to the right slope. We set welded wire mesh or rebar on chairs so the steel sits inside the slab rather than on the ground, then pour to the correct thickness, usually four inches for walkways and patios and thicker for driveways that carry vehicles. Good base, good steel, and correct thickness are what keep a slab from cracking and sinking.
Concrete shrinks a little as it cures and moves with temperature, and that movement creates stress. Rather than pretend concrete will never crack, good work controls where cracks happen. We cut or tool control joints at planned spacing and depth, which creates a weak line so that when the slab shrinks, it cracks down inside the joint where you do not see it. Proper thickness, steel, and a compacted base reduce cracking further, and curing the slab slowly by keeping it moist early on lets it gain strength without drying too fast. Some fine hairline lines are normal and do not affect strength.
There are several finishes, and they change both look and traction. A broom finish is the most common, with light texture that sheds water and grips underfoot. Exposed aggregate rinses away the top paste to reveal the stone inside, giving a durable, non-slip surface. Stamped concrete presses a pattern into fresh concrete to imitate stone, brick, or wood plank. Color comes either from integral pigment mixed through the batch or from stains applied after curing, and a sealer protects the surface and deepens the color. We can match a finish to your home and to how much slip resistance a given area needs.
Block and garden walls are a large part of what we do. A standard freestanding wall is built from concrete block on a concrete footing, with vertical rebar in grouted cells and horizontal steel so it stands up to wind and minor ground movement. We build low garden and planter walls, taller privacy and property walls, seat walls around a patio, and pilasters for gates or lights. The block can be left plain, stuccoed to match the house, or faced with stone or brick veneer. Caps finish the top and keep water out of the cells.
We do. Veneer is a thin layer of natural stone, manufactured stone, or brick bonded to a structural wall to give it the look of solid masonry. It works on new block walls, on house foundations and columns, on retaining wall faces, and on outdoor kitchen and fireplace surrounds. Natural stone is cut or split from real rock, while manufactured stone is a cast product that weighs less and costs less. Both are set in mortar over a proper backing so they stay put and shed water. Veneer is a good way to tie walls, pilasters, and the house together into one look.
The difference is in how the surface is held together. Paver hardscaping is usually dry-laid: units set on a compacted gravel and sand base with sand swept into the joints, and nothing is glued or poured. Concrete and masonry is bonded. A slab is one poured, reinforced piece, and block or brick walls are mortared and grouted with steel inside. Pavers can be lifted and reset and flex a little with the ground, while concrete is rigid, seamless, and generally lasts longer with less joint maintenance. Neither is better for every job. We help you weigh cost, look, drainage, and upkeep for your specific yard.
Some West Hills properties have rocky ground, and that cuts both ways. Rock and dense soil give strong bearing, which is good news for footings because the wall or slab has a solid base to sit on and is less likely to settle. The trade-off is digging. Rock is slower and harder to excavate for footings, trenches, and drain lines, and it sometimes calls for different equipment. We check the soil at the start so we can plan the footing depth and the dig correctly. Solid ground under a footing is one of the reasons walls built here can stand for a long time.
Often, yes. In Los Angeles a retaining wall above a set height, commonly four feet measured from the bottom of the footing to the top of the wall, or a wall carrying a surcharge such as a slope or a driveway above it, requires engineering and a building permit. Shorter garden walls usually do not. For driveways, the apron where it meets the street sits in the public right of way and typically needs a separate permit that meets the city standard. We handle the permitting and the engineering coordination as part of the job so the work is done to code and inspected.
On the western hills, wildfire risk is real, and concrete and masonry help because they do not burn. A concrete block or poured wall, a masonry veneer, and a concrete patio or driveway are all noncombustible, so they can serve as a buffer between brush and the house and they will not carry flame the way a wood fence or deck can. Masonry walls can also double as a defensible barrier along a property edge. This does not make a home fireproof, but replacing combustible features near the house with concrete and masonry is a sensible step in a hillside neighborhood like this one.
Timing depends on what you are doing on the surface. As a general rule, you can walk on new concrete after about twenty-four hours, though it is best to stay off the edges. You can drive a normal vehicle on a new driveway after about seven days. Concrete keeps gaining strength for weeks and reaches most of its design strength around twenty-eight days, which is why we cure it carefully in the first days by keeping it moist so it does not dry too fast. We will give you the specific times for your pour and let you know when sealer, if used, is ready.
Every project is built by one licensed contractor. Daniels Landscaping stays accountable for the work. The same people who dig and form the footings set the steel, pour the concrete, lay the block, and finish the surface. That matters on concrete and masonry, because the parts you never see, the compacted base, the rebar placement, the grout in the cells, and the drainage behind a wall, are what decide whether the finished work lasts. Keeping it in-house means one crew is accountable from the first day of excavation to the final finish, and the standard stays the same throughout.
Getting started is simple. Call us at (818) 443-9300 to set up a visit. We come out to look at your site, talk through what you want to build, check the slope, soil, and drainage, and take measurements. From there we prepare a free written estimate that lays out the scope, the materials, and the price, so you can see exactly what is included before you decide anything. Daniels Landscaping is licensed in California, license number 1138709, and every job is Built under one licensed contractor. When you are ready, we schedule the work and keep you informed from the first dig to the final finish.