FAQ
Concrete and Masonry in Lake View Terrace, answered
The questions we hear most from Lake View Terrace homeowners.
Two related families of work that often meet on the same job. Poured concrete gives you driveways, walkways, patio slabs, steps and pool decks, formed and finished in place over a compacted base. Masonry is unit work set in mortar, meaning block walls, brick, stone veneer, seat walls, pilasters and retaining walls. On larger parcels here the two almost always touch, since a driveway needs an edge, a flat area near rising ground needs a wall to hold that ground back, and a patio reads better with a low wall to sit against. We plan both together instead of one at a time.
Because of what sits under the surface. This ground is alluvial, built from material washed out of the canyons above, and it carries cobble and rock all through it rather than uniform soil. A footing trench that would take a morning somewhere else can take considerably longer when the machine keeps stopping on rock and the crew has to open the last of it by hand. None of that is a reason to shorten a footing. We account for the digging honestly in the estimate, so what shows up in the trench does not become a money conversation halfway through the job.
Deep enough to reach material that will genuinely carry the wall, which is the part most people underestimate on this ground. Loose alluvial fill near the surface can look solid and still move once a wall loads it, so the trench keeps going until the bottom bears on something dependable rather than stopping at a convenient number. Width and depth follow the height of the wall and whatever it retains. The footing is also where vertical steel gets set, positioned to line up with the cells that will later be grouted, because rebar added afterward does nothing at all.
Yes, and it pays to design for the trailer from the beginning rather than pouring an ordinary residential driveway and hoping. Lake View Terrace is an equestrian community, so access routes carry loaded trailers, feed and equipment, not only passenger cars. That changes base depth, slab thickness, the reinforcement and the turning geometry, since a rig needs room to swing without dropping a wheel off the edge. Thickened edges where tires track off the concrete prevent the cracking that normally begins right there. Building it once at the correct thickness costs less than repairing it twice.
It depends entirely on what rolls across it. A patio carrying furniture and foot traffic is a different slab from a wash area, a shop apron or a pad that trailers and tractors park on. Heavier use calls for a deeper compacted base, a thicker slab and reinforcement sized to the load rather than to a minimum. Larger properties here frequently need both on one site, something lighter near the house and something heavier out where equipment works. Pouring everything at a single thickness either wastes your money or fails early, and neither outcome is acceptable to us.
The apron portion does, because it sits in the public right of way rather than on your land. Lake View Terrace is part of the City of Los Angeles, so approvals run through the city and Los Angeles Building and Safety is the department involved on the building side. The private stretch of driveway behind your property line is treated separately from the piece crossing the parkway out to the street. We identify which parts of a project require approval before anything gets scheduled, and we do not quietly build work that should have been permitted.
Once it passes the height the city allows without one, and sooner if it carries a surcharge such as a driveway, a structure or a slope pushing from above. At the foot of the hills that surcharge condition is common, because the ground rarely agrees to stop rising at a property line. An engineered wall means a stamped drawing with a specified footing, a steel schedule, a drainage detail and a backfill spec, submitted for permit through Los Angeles Building and Safety. Below the threshold a wall can go in without that process, but it still has to be built properly.
By treating the back of the wall as a drainage assembly rather than a place to push dirt. Water coming off the hills pays no attention to property lines, so a wall in this area will see flow whether or not anyone planned for it. Behind the block goes clean gravel backfill, a perforated pipe at the base sloped to daylight, and weep holes through the face so pressure has somewhere to go. Saturated soil pushes on a wall with far more force than dry soil does, and without that detailing something eventually gives.
Concrete shrinks while it cures and has very little tensile strength, so it cracks. The real work is deciding where. Control joints are tooled or saw cut at planned spacing and depth so the slab relieves itself along a straight line you barely notice instead of wandering across the middle. Reinforcement holds both sides of that crack tight rather than preventing it from forming. Curing matters just as much, since a slab that dries too fast in valley heat cracks more and finishes weaker. Anyone promising crack free concrete is either new to this or not being straight with you.
The preparation nobody sees and everybody feels later. Organics and soft material come out, the area gets cut to grade, then base material is placed and compacted in lifts instead of dumped all at once. Native ground here drains quickly, which helps, but it is uneven in composition, and uniform compaction is what stops one section of a slab from settling further than the section beside it. Finished grade gets established at this stage too, falling away from the house and toward wherever water is meant to travel. Steel then sits on chairs above that base.
For anything carrying trucks or trailers, rebar tied into a grid. Mesh has a place in light duty flatwork, but it is easy to leave lying flat on the ground where it contributes nothing, and on a property where loaded vehicles cross daily that shortcut announces itself as cracking within a few seasons. Placement matters more than the choice of material. Steel has to sit up on chairs so it finishes inside the middle third of the slab, and somebody has to be watching during the pour to keep it there while concrete moves around it.
Broom finish stays the practical answer for driveways and any surface that gets wet, since the texture provides traction under feet and under tires. Exposed aggregate suits properties with a rural character, because washed stone reads naturally against open ground and hides wear well. Stamped concrete imitates stone or plank and performs best on patios seen up close. Integral color runs through the entire batch rather than sitting on top, so it does not wear away along the traffic lines. On working surfaces, traction usually settles the question before appearance gets a vote.
Not in every case, though it earns its keep in specific places. Sealer slows absorption of oil, fertilizer, rust and organic staining, and it keeps decorative color from fading. Plain broom finished flatwork frequently does fine without any. Where animals, vehicles and equipment are part of daily use, a penetrating sealer becomes much easier to justify because those surfaces take steady abuse. Sealers wear and need reapplication on a cycle, and film forming products can turn slick once wet, so we choose carefully for anything people or horses walk across regularly.
Cell by cell, with steel and grout doing the actual work. Vertical bars run up out of the footing into the cores, horizontal bars sit in bond beam courses, and those cells are filled solid so the wall behaves as one reinforced element instead of a stack of units held together by mortar. Hollow block with no steel and no grout is a fence waiting for an excuse to fall. Courses are kept level and plumb as the wall rises, joints struck consistently, and the top capped so water cannot stand in open cells.
Yes. Veneer goes over a properly built structural wall, so the block and footing carry the load while the stone or brick supplies the face. Preparation decides whether veneer lasts, which means a sound substrate, the correct scratch coat and setting materials, full coverage behind every piece, and flashing and weeps where water needs a way out. Corners and returns get cut so no unfinished edge shows. On properties that back toward open ground and rising hills, natural stone generally sits more comfortably than a repeating manufactured pattern.
It can, as one piece of a larger approach. This area sits at the wildland interface, where clearance and what grows close to buildings genuinely matter. Noncombustible surfaces such as concrete flatwork, block walls and stone give you usable ground near a structure without adding fuel to it, and a walkway or patio ring can act as the transition between a building and whatever planting begins beyond it. Masonry by itself is not a fire plan, and we will not pretend otherwise, but choosing hard surfaces close in is a sensible part of one.
One licensed contractor, from the first cut to the last joint. Daniels Landscaping stays accountable for the work. The same people who excavate and compact the base set the forms, tie the steel, place the concrete, cut the joints and lay the block. That continuity counts for more on this trade than most, because concrete is unforgiving of a handoff and the crew that prepared the subgrade knows precisely where grade was set and why. One company builds it, and one company answers for it when you call later.
Call Daniels Landscaping at (818) 443-9300 and we will walk the property with you, looking at grade, equipment access and where water travels across the site. From that visit you receive a free written estimate covering excavation, base, reinforcement, thickness, finish, any wall detailing and drainage, plus whatever permitting the project requires. We hold California license 1138709. Nothing goes on the calendar until you have read the estimate through and told us to proceed, and the number does not drift once you have signed it.