FAQ
Hardscaping in Sunland-Tujunga, answered
The questions we hear most from Sunland-Tujunga homeowners.
Anything built as a hard surface without pouring or mortaring it. On these foothill lots that usually means paver patios, walkways of stone or brick, decomposed granite paths, steps running between terrace levels, low seat walls, and the borders and edging that hold everything in place. The visible material is only part of it. Under every surface sits an excavated subgrade, a compacted aggregate base, and a drainage strategy, and those layers decide whether the patio still sits flat several winters from now. The surface you look at is the last inch of a much deeper assembly.
A dry laid patio is built from individual units resting on compacted base, held by joint sand and an edge restraint, with no mortar and no pour anywhere in it. Concrete arrives as one continuous slab and depends on control joints and curing to manage the cracking that comes with it. The practical difference on a shifting foothill lot is repairability. A paver surface can be lifted, the base corrected, and the same units relaid, which matters where ground settles or a root lifts a corner. A cracked slab is generally cut out and replaced.
Not as a substitute for proper base rock. Native decomposed granite drains beautifully and compacts to a degree, but it is not graded aggregate and does not interlock the way crushed base does under load. We excavate to the depth the surface requires and bring in the correct base material, compacted in lifts. Where the native ground is firm and free draining, it makes an excellent subgrade to build on, which is a real advantage over heavy clay sites. The native material is genuinely useful as a finished path surface, just not as the structure beneath pavers.
By making the level ground first. On most of these hillside properties the patio does not exist until a terrace has been cut and held, so retaining comes before paving in the sequence. We establish the pad, hold the uphill cut, deal with the water arriving from above, then build the paved surface on top with a slight fall across it so nothing sheets back toward the house. Access is planned early, since base rock, sand, and pallets of pavers all have to reach a level that may be well below the street.
Excavation deep enough for the intended use, then graded aggregate base placed and compacted in lifts rather than dumped in one layer and rolled once. Patios and walkways need less depth than anything a vehicle will cross. Digging here is genuinely hard because of the rock content, and the temptation to stop shallow is exactly what produces a sunken patio later. After the base is compacted, a thin screeded bedding layer receives the pavers. Compaction is the step that quietly determines the outcome, and it cannot be recovered once the surface is down.
Because Sunland-Tujunga is inside the City of Los Angeles, anything permit driven goes through Los Angeles Building and Safety. Ordinary dry laid patios, walkways, and paths generally do not require one. Retaining walls are the item that most often does on these steep lots, since walls above a certain height need an engineered design and a permit before construction. Given how much terracing this terrain calls for, that question comes up on a large share of projects here. We flag it during the site walk so it lands in the schedule at the beginning.
Yes, and on these slopes steps are frequently the spine of the whole layout. Every flight is set to a consistent riser and tread so people are not adjusting their stride halfway down, and each unit is bedded on compacted base so it does not rock underfoot. Longer runs are broken with landings, which makes the descent easier and gives the design somewhere to turn. Water is dealt with alongside the steps rather than being allowed to run down them. Large stone slabs suit the wild character here better than a uniform manufactured tread.
On a terraced foothill lot they often become the same element. A wall holding the uphill cut at roughly seating height can be capped and finished so it serves as built in seating at the edge of a patio, which saves both space and money. The important distinction is what each is doing structurally. A wall holding real earth behind it needs drainage, backfill, and the reinforcement its height demands, while a freestanding seat wall does not. We build them to the job they are actually performing, not to the way they look.
It suits this area better than almost anything else. Stabilized decomposed granite gives a firm, walkable, permeable surface in a color that already matches the ground and the hills behind the property, so a path reads as belonging rather than being imported. It costs less than paving and it can follow a curve or a contour easily. It does need a compacted base, a proper edge to keep it contained, and occasional topping up, particularly where a path runs on any grade and rain wants to move the fines downhill.
The native decomposed granite drains quickly, which helps, but it does not remove the need for a plan. Surfaces are pitched so water leaves them, and open graded base beneath a permeable surface lets what does soak through keep moving. Where a patio sits against a cut slope, water arriving from uphill is intercepted before it reaches the paving, usually with a channel drain or a swale tied into a line that carries it somewhere safe. On steep ground the volume that shows up during a real storm is what has to be designed for.
Edge restraint, and it is the component people forget. Every dry laid field must be locked at its perimeter, either by a buried restraint spiked into the compacted base or by a solid border course, because without it the outer units migrate outward and the whole field loosens from the edges inward. On sloped ground the loading is constant rather than occasional, so the downhill edge takes the most punishment and gets the most attention. Restraint is installed on the compacted base, never on loose bedding sand, which would simply travel with the pavers.
Joint sand is what fills the gaps between units after they are laid, and it is structural rather than cosmetic. Once compacted in, it lets the field share load across many pavers instead of each one working alone. Polymeric versions bind slightly when wetted, which resists washout and slows weeds, and on sloped foothill sites where runoff moves fast that resistance is worth having. It is not permanent. Joints get topped up over the years, particularly along the low edge of a patio where storm water concentrates and pulls material out.
Frequently, yes. The decomposed granite here comes down out of the San Gabriels carrying rock with it, and excavation for base, wall footings, and drain runs regularly meets material that does not simply dig out. Sometimes a drain line is rerouted around an obstruction and sometimes a footing shifts a foot or two to bear on sound ground. What we will not do is reduce an excavation depth because the digging got difficult, since a shallow base or a short footing shows up later as settlement. We allow for the ground being hard from the start.
Paving works in your favor here. Stone, pavers, gravel, and decomposed granite do not burn, so a hard surface or a gravel band placed close to the structure doubles as defensible space while still being useful ground. That makes hardscape a sensible choice for the zone immediately against the house, in place of combustible mulch or dense shrubs. Wood elements and heavy planting are better kept farther out. On a wildland interface property, deciding where the paving stops and the planting starts is partly a safety decision.
Usually, with the layout adjusted to suit the tree instead of the reverse. Roots extend far beyond the canopy, so we avoid excavating and compacting across that zone wherever the plan allows, and we route paths around it rather than through it. Where a surface must pass near a tree, a permeable material such as decomposed granite or an open jointed paver lets water and air continue to reach the roots. Cutting a full depth base straight through a root plate is how a healthy mature tree ends up declining a few years later.
One licensed contractor, from the first cut of excavation to the final sweep of joint sand. Daniels Landscaping stays accountable for the work. The people who dig and compact the base are the same people who set the units, install the restraint, and finish the edges, which matters because most hardscape failures start in the layers nobody sees. One crew, one standard, one company answering for the result. You know who is coming through the gate and who to ask about anything on the job.
Yes, provided the whole property is planned first and the phases are ordered correctly. Terracing, retaining, and any drainage or sleeving that passes under a future surface belong at the beginning, even where the paving above them waits for a later stage, because opening a finished patio to run a line is destroying work already paid for. Once the ground is shaped and the buried elements are in, patios, paths, and walls can follow one at a time. Phasing without a master plan is what leaves a yard full of pieces that never connect.
Call Daniels Landscaping at (818) 443-9300 and we will set a time to walk the site. We look at the slope and where level ground can be created, the rock in the excavation, how water moves across the property, the trees to work around, and whether any wall on the plan needs a permit through Los Angeles Building and Safety. You then receive a free written estimate laying out scope and materials in plain language. We hold California license number 1138709. There is no cost and no obligation for the estimate.